Friday very early morning I woke up and walked up to the window. It was still dark and I could see only some building silhouettes thanks to the weak lights next to them. The city looked a little different; more misty. But I knew mist here was not an option, at least not in January. I opened the balcony door; I did it every morning to air the apartment. The wind was much stronger than usual. When it got lighter I realized it must have been the harmattan: the desert storm. It was not something apocalyptic like I imagined, having read some descriptions in books, but there was something eerie about it. Usually the city is very sunny but this morning it was rather dull and the landscape was rather depressing as the sandy coloured buildings looked more tattered and glum. It reminded me of Beijing where on a polluted day everything looked uniformly grey. But Beijing was grey-grey; here it was yellow-grey. You could see the ball of sun trying to break through the thick carpet of dust, and around noon it was half-successful. I decided to spend the day at home. It was Friday anyway, so around noon things go completely dead, I am told, as everyone prays. Apparently business resumes after the religious rituals but after 3 weeks of being at work or on scheduled social events I thought I needed a day just to myself.
I was reading A Secret History by Theroux. I usually do not read novels, but after his Dark Star Safari I decided to give it a go. He goes on about his time as an altar boy and his vivid descriptions brought on my reminiscences of my church experiences. I gave up church just after the first communion. The first communion in my country was a big thing then and it is probably even bigger now. Don’t forget it was still the ‘regime time’. We did not have religion classes at school. We had to go to the nearby church. In my country churches are aplenty. You never have to walk far to find one. At that time all kids my age enrolled in religion classes and nobody questioned anything. The authorities did not mind and everybody who wanted to could go to church. First communion was a big deal for the kids as we were all looking forward to the gifts. Girls wanted to show off their dresses, guys were anxious to get their first bikes. It was a farce then, it is still now.
Before the big ceremony, there was the preparation period including church sessions and mock confessions. Life was a little different then in the aspect of shopping. While it is true that shops were not full of merchandise everybody somehow got whatever they needed even for big occasions.
The church in our parish was being built; the plans were grand and the work moved on slowly. An interim building was constructed so that the faithful had a place to worship. It was a barrack-like structure: low, narrow, long and dark inside. A hideous place to go worship the lord; but maybe the darkness was purposeful so that the crowds gathered repented more?
After school one day, very close to the big day, we had our mock confessions. I totally had forgotten about it and so did not have my little book with me. It was a book were class participation was noted and other things signed with the priest’s signature or his stamp. Usually it was not a big problem if one forgot it for the classes but today was big, and I did not have it with me. What happened later his really shows my perverse character even in my young age. I could not be bothered to go home to get it and I knew that the priest would want to see it to stamp it to show I have gone through all the procedures for the big day. So when at the confessional I just told him a lie! I said I could not get the book as my mum was not at home as she went to buy me the white shoes required for the ceremony! I remember it still today. Sitting in the pews, all kids in quiet commotion reciting their prayers and getting ready to confess their sins. The darkness of the church magnified the darkness of the sins we were persuaded we had committed. In my cheekiness though, I was concocting a lie to get away with my absent-mindedness. I guess church and I never were meant for each other.
Reading the book made all these memories rush back to the front of my mind.
I was now in one of the most religious countries in the world. I started hating the muezzins broadcasting their prayers five times a day, waking me up in the very early morning. It was nothing more to me than crowd control. Just like back home then when I was little we were all made to be scared of the god and his ambassadors on earth, here and now all the population mindlessly joined the prayers in the same spirit of submission and fear of eternal hell.
But back home the churches were for everybody; here the mosques are for men only. I never in my life saw a Muslim woman praying. Until now. My apartment is on the third level and right next to the yard wall there are some mud brick structures belonging to the poorer of this land. They live in incredibly Spartan conditions and I get to see it all first hand from above. Sometimes I feel like a god looking down on them… They seem perfectly friendly so do not really frown upon them… I am not sure what they really make out of me looking straight at their household but I take this privilege rather often. One afternoon I saw a woman in one of the enclosures throw a little rug in a certain direction and walked away busy with some chores. When the prayer broadcast started she joined though on the carpet in her own yard. This was my first Muslim female praying so I watched her intently. She was on the carpet hitting her head on the ground covered with the carpet. I think she is pregnant, so the growing belly added certain clumsiness to her moves but she did try her best to please the god. So yes, it was a proof that women do pray but more intimately at home.
All this segregation seems really strange to me and I do not even attempt to understand it. The only way for me to deal with it is just drawing the line between us and them. But then who is us? Who is the us that I could associate myself with? Certainly not the church back home. I have so many issues with this institution as with the segregation here. Back in China where there was no religious dominance I did not feel I had a connection there either. Sounding a bit theatrical I guess it is just me and the rest of the world. Just a spectator watching a show unfold, sometimes turning away in disgust and sometimes with eyes widening from curiosity…
























